simple and cheap fix

It is not pretty but it is effective. Got some j-bolts off eBay the sort used in roofing. 220mm long bolt with the j hooked around the hood frame and the threaded tail poking through the bracket on the Lenham hardtop. That should stop the top lifting at speed.

agreed value sorted and then locked in

Rather than send photos to get the agreed value insurance confirmed I went to TSSC HQ. Got the car valued and a good long chat. A great drive through snowy east midlands.

On coming home and parking up in the yard I was unable to open the drivers door from inside so had to fold myself out of the passenger side. Not easy as I am 6ft 1in tall and the car is full of bits of trim. Another item for the snagging list.

Was able to open it from outside after a bit of fiddling. Seems like the mechanism probably needs a good clean up and lubricate.

Lubricated the anti burst latch and the door seems to open much easier.

heater and heated rear window

The Honeybourne hardtop is now on the car.  Have spent more time getting the interior lighting to work.  Because all the lighting that can be dimmed did not work I started at the lighting rheostat.  All seemed OK there so followed the wiring onto the cigar lighter to find that it was not earthed.  When an earth was fitted to the cigar lighter most of the heater control lighting started to work. Took the bulbs out and cleaner up the connections - now have all 4 heater lights working.  

Then traced the wiring to the switch panel above.

Here again a bit of cleaning up the connections got both lights to work.  With the heater console off it was clear that neither of the outer sliders were properly connected. I hope that may explains the lack of cabin heating because the outer slider turns the heat on and off.

Looking at the heated rear window switch I can not see how the warning light works.  The switch has a plastic panel at the top with the symbol on to, see below. Also looking at the wiring diagram there should there be a heated rear window warning light.  Where is this located on the car?  The switch has a hole in it that would allow a light to be inserted from behind. There is no obvious spare wiring for such a light visible at present as I have yet to take the top off the dashboard.

Triumph TR7 Heated rear window switch

.PS On taking the dash top off I was able to retrieve the wiring for the heated rear (demister) window switch.  The wiring loom included the wiring for a demister despite my car being a convertible.  At the rear of the interior I was also able to find the ready fitted demister wiring.

The heated rear window (demister) switch fits straight in. You just have to make a hole for it to look out of the switch panel by carefully cutting out the relevant part of the panel.  The lettering for below the switch should also be there too.

Electrical work and more heater

 

Battery spec

Stripped out parts of the centre console to access the lighting rheostat. Earlier had established that several of the lighting bulbs were OK by removing them and testing them a battery charger. It all came apart easily. Also found that the 2 outer heater levers were not connected to the controls - reconnected them.

On trying to start the engine/test the heater nothing happened - battery completely flat. Off to Halfords to get a new one, they have nothing suitable. Home to do some research, Beans on the Club Triumph forum came back very quick with a suggestion of what battery to use. Unfortunately the Bosch S4 023 is not available locally.

Allwoods http://www.allwoods-automotive.co.uk/ my local independent car parts place. had an Oldham advanced battery (3 year calcium chemistry) for £47.99. Apparently the same size as a classic mini and getting difficult to source - several makers no longer produce to that spec - I was told.

Alternative battery size 015, 038 

Will take some pictures of the dissection tomorrow.